Wednesday 24 October 2007

Surfs Up


Decided that Iam ready for a smaller surfboard, so have traded in the old one.   It (the old) was 7' 6'', and abit cumbersome.  Was great for learning on, once on a wave you could stay up on it, but awkward to maneuver in the water, and getting to and from the beach.  Paddling out through the breaks was very difficult too due to the shape and inability to dive under waves.  So I got a smaller 6'6'' board.

The pointed nose and smaller surface area means getting out through the breaking waves is much easier now, however, it is has far less balance.  You have to be going quite fast for the board to become at all stable, but can turn alot more.   So far it has been quite challenging on the new board, it has been like learning to surf all over again infact, but think I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Perseverance is definitely needed with surfing.

For inspiration i'm reading "High Surf" by Tim Collins.

"Leading surf journalist Tim Baker has profiled the surfing world's most inspiring characters, encountered over two decades of surf writing, to highlight the life lessons and boundless inspiration to be gained from a lifestyle built around waveriding. From salty old surf legends to modern pro–surf stars, to surfers from all walks of life –– writers, musicians, aid workers, ethicists –– the common theme in all these surfers' lives is how their personal journeys have been shaped and informed by their experiences in the ocean."

It started off a bit "surfing is all about finding waves of energy in ocean and earth" hippy crap, but after awhile becomes an excellent collection of short stories from some the greatest surf legends, and a good history lesson in it (surfing).


What else have been up to?  Not much.  Ingunn and I are spending a week in Byron Bay over Christmas.   Still trying to decide on the wedding,  very difficult to do anything from here.

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