Dude, i like went over the falls and totally pearled today.
After 2 1/2 hours of fighting a massive Bondi surf, being thrashed by rhino waves, and inhaling half of the sea I managed to ride about 7-8 of the big ones and loved every second of it. By the end of it i was suffering from Peralitis* though.
It's a great sensation just gliding down a wave. I know I'm going to ache so much tomorrow, but am definitely looking forward to next Saturday's session.
Currently reading Diamond Age by Neal Stephenson, a bizarre postcyberpunk novel; watching "The Great Global Warming Swindle", a group of very prominent scientists explain if the planet is heating up, it isn't your fault and there's nothing you can do about it - very compelling; watching National Geographic Adventure Channel, and eating at the rather excellent "Eat Thai the republic" restaurant down Darlinghurst rd (this is a a big call, but I think it as good as if not better than the legendary Thai Thai Poh).
Anyway, I'm kished, goodnight.
* Pearlitis :
The propensity to drop into a wave and have the nose of the surfboard bury under water thus causing the rider to be pitched out from the face of the breaking wave. Generally resulting in the surfer being worked or rag dolled.
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